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38/50.- Umbria, Prodo Piazza

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The village school is no longer operative for want of children. But besides a castle, Prodo still sports a church and one bar-and-shop held by two ageing brothers who take turns serving tiny cups of dark, strong espresso coffee, sometimes « corrected » with a dash of grappa or sambucca. The bar is the centre of Prodo’s social life – at least for men. While the ladies will gather on the shaded side of the piazza to exchange local gossip after finishing their household chores, the men will sit around sipping coffee and playing cards. A few times per week, a baker and a grocer will stop by with their vans, but otherwise life is entirely dependent on local produce or on shops and markets in town.

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